A Guide for NEWCOMERS to R/C Modelling (read all the following)

Flying radio controlled aircraft looks great fun and I can assure you it is, even more, it gives a great sense of achievement and exhilaration to actually fly something that you have spent many hours constructing.

Many newcomers are attracted to our hobby having seen flying displays or read an article in a magazine and think "that looks interesting, I could do that". But don't be mislead R/C aircraft is a totally different "hobby" to the schoolboy "chuck glider" or "elastic band" powered kit. The airborne asset value of a model can vary from £200 to in excess of £10,000 but the average club model would probably be worth between £300 to £500.

The following paragraphs try to make you aware of the reality of model flying. It needs to be taken seriously, not as a five minute whim. If you approach it casually you could be wasting your money and others time invested in your training. If you think of this as "kids toys" then don't even bother reading the rest of this page, go and play with your dinky toys.

If however you are serious about it and in for the long haul then stake a claim on the spare bedroom immediately. You're in for a great deal of enjoyment, disappointment, frustration, exhilaration and all the other emotional extremes. 

What's the Cost?

Apart from the building and flying, the initial financial outlay these days is not for the "penny pincher". The cost of a "starter package" would set you back a minimum of £250.00, which would have to cover the price of the aircraft kit, transmitter and flight pack, engine, starter systems, props and sundry bits. Then as you acquire flying ability the costs go even higher. Have you ever wondered why most modellers are mature adults? They're the only generation that have both the time and finance to pursue the hobby.

The expense doesn't stop there. There is a 99% chance that you will have to repair the model at least once within the first 3 months of flying it, even if under expert instruction. If you try to go it alone it's likely that you won't even get it off the ground and will incur extensive damage. Even if you do fluke it off the ground (10,000 to 1 against) you will almost certainly write it off trying to get it down again.

Building your first kit

Kits come in a variety of formats from ARTF (almost ready to fly) to Plan Packs (a plan and basic essential materials). The former is by far the most expensive requiring less actual building time but still doesn't eliminate building errors. The latter teaches you more about the construction of models but obviously requires a great deal more time and attention to proper building techniques. Which ever you choose they all need care and attention to ensure the completed  model is "square and true" thus ensuring the best chance of flying stability. If a model is "thrown together" or "built on your lap" it may fly but will have the attitude of a pig, unpredictable, impossible to trim for some basic flying manoeuvres etc. etc. When you're leaning to fly you do need a stable, docile and forgiving craft which has been built properly allowing you to progress as quick as possible so that you are the limitations of development rather than the model.

Learning on simulators?

There are those that have "flown virtual" using simulators on a PC and think they have a good grounding for real model flight. Wrong.....most domestic PC's aren't fast enough or powerful enough to realistically emulate a model. In fact most simulator programs incorporate "operator error overrides" or "assisted control" simply because they can't handle "real time" consequences of the operator error. Even the most sophisticated simulator can only react to predetermined situations for a pre-programmed craft and its highly unlikely that the model you choose as your first is the same craft. Even if it was the chances of your model being built and balanced the same as the virtual is remote. Then of course you have another major difference, instead of a single joy stick for your PC you are confronted with TWO sticks on the transmitter.

N.B. Certain notes have been entered in the visitors book which disagree with the above paragraph. The first entry praised simulators but then confessed to have taken instruction from an experienced pilot to teach him how to fly whilst the second gentleman was already an experienced flyer and used the simulator to teach himself how to achieve quite advanced manoeuvres. The point of this article is discourage "NEW COMERS" from thinking that having used simulators they can go out on a field and pilot a model. I maintain my statements are valid and that the "guests entries" drifted from the "NEW COMER" theme.

Question ???? Can simulators allow a model to be trimmed "Nose or Tail Heavy", similarly set too much or too little "control surface throw", adjust engine thrust line, you know all the things that has to be done on a new model???? Replies Please...   

The Dangers

A model aircraft of the R/C mode is a very dangerous device. In its most inactive state could sever a finger or two and in flight it can be literally lethal so don't underestimate the dangers involved. You should never try to start an engine if it's your first time, get an experienced modeller to do it for you. It's very likely that if you don't do yourself an injury you will damage the engine.

Most "trainer" models will weigh in at some 5 LB (2.5Kgms) and be capable of flying at speeds in excess of 40mph which if it's heading towards you is worse than somebody throwing a house brick at you.

The DO NOTs

Don't go out and buy your first model just because it "LOOKS" good. Consult somebody with experience and beware of some retailers who will recommend a kit simply because it happens to be on his stock inventory and not necessarily what you need. There are plenty of mail order companies who will have what you want at probably a great deal less cost.

The same rules applies to Transmitters, all you need is a simple relatively inexpensive device. Don't be fobbed off with a "new all singing and dancing computerised" version since you will never use its advantages until you are able to fly sophisticated craft (probably more than 2 years after starting). You could be paying +£100 more than necessary.

Again the same applies to engines. All you need is a very basic device, don't buy a "Rolls Royce". For a given size of engine, say a 40, the cost could vary from £35 to £135. There are of course differences, mainly power output, but your instructor will only let you use half power anyway.

Why should you buy the basics rather than the best. If the worst happens and after a few months you don't continue flying the financial loss is minimised. Alternatively if you become an avid flyer the initial equipment will still be in use several years in the future if not on the original craft certainly on a new model.

Do not expect to turn up at the flying field and receive 2 or 3 hours training and go home a competent flyer. You'll be lucky to get 2 or 3 sessions lasting 10 to 15 minutes each, remember the instructors are there not to just help you but to fly themselves. For a normal grass field weekend club, taking into account the British weather, you'll be doing very well if you can take off and land solo inside six months. Ironically when you reach this stage the prangs become more frequent.   

How should I go about it?

Well if you're reading this you must have access to the internet. You should find a club in your area, by visiting the BMFA web site (see our links page), and try to contact somebody in that club who can tell you how to apply for membership.

Most clubs are very receptive to newcomers and will give you all the support you need for selecting, building and flying your first craft.

It is pointless trying to explain here what you should do other than contact a club, since the subject is so vast. Indeed many books having been written for beginners (which may help) but when push comes to shove its the supervised practical experience which is best.

Good luck and happy flying.