ST AIDAN's Church, LLAWHADEN.

It is always difficult in history, particularly of that related to a Saint, to distinguish between what is legend and what is fact. For the most part however this is only due to the passage of time and the information being handed down in what is called "oral tradition. Within all this there still remains the threads of historical evidence around which everything else is woven.

Following the leaving of the Romans there was a breakdown in the government of the country and in the 5th Century West Wales was invaded by the Irish and their dynasty was established in Dyfed. During this time St. David established his community at St. David’s at Mynyw, or Menevia as it was later called. During the 8th. Century we know from ancient texts that Llawhaden was of great importance as a Church centre having one of the seven Bishop's Residences in Dyfed and was part of the possessions of the community of St. David. St. David was accepted as the Patron Saint and by the time the Normans came the See of the Lord Bishop of St. David's was the most powerful in Wales.

The young Aidan, an Irish monk, was a pupil of Dewi Sant in the 6th. Century. At that time Dewi was building churches and founding religious settlements between Milford Haven and the mouth of the River Towy. It is said that Aidan was sent by Dewi Sant to fetch building materials by wagon for the construction of a church at Llandewi Velfrey. When Aidan came to the Ford, where Llawhaden Bridge now stands, he is reported to have said, "What a beautiful place to build a church", and it is here that he built the first church which was probably a wooden structure.

A point of interest here is that the same Ford was used by Geraldus Cambrensis on his journey around Wales as he travelled from St. Clears to

the Rhos. The place name being recorded as Lanwadein.

A beautiful description of the church, which endorses fully the choice of site by Aidan, was given by The Revd Thomas Jones, Vicar in 1922, as: "The sacred pile on the brink of the River Cleddau, known as St. Aidan's Church, is spacious, lofty and wonderfully proportionate. It is the admiration of all visitors. The rippling and sometimes almost thunderous sound of the Weir Falls seems like a constant chord of melody to the great Author of the Universe, and blends in harmony with the human voices of praise and thanksgiving within the church. The whole scene is simply superb and enchanting." Unfortunately the weir was washed away during a storm in the 1930's.

Since the days of Aidan there has been at least two church buildings on the same site. The Norman Bishops, who lived in Llawhaden Castle for the best part of four centuries rebuilt the present church. The towers of the present church. The towers of the present church, one built in the 13th. Century and the other in the 14th. Century are Norman. The tower is quite unique, it is a double tower with the alder smaller tower being two storeyed and the later one being three storeyed. The Larger tower seems to be nursing the smaller one and keeping watch over it as well as acting as a Watch-tower with a marvellous view of the Cleddau valley. The older tower was designed to carry a spire and may have done so until the erection of the more stately and majestic one which overlooks it. The one is built into the other with the north wall of the older tower forming the south wall of the later one up to its full height. The staircase of the small tower is also complete and a buttress remains on the north wall. It is now, as it has been down the ages, untampered with except for the addition of the battlements. The higher tower is a fine example of its kind and is remarkable for its lofty raking plinth. The tower, although outside the church, can be entered from the bell-chamber.

The bell-chamber houses the three bells which are fixed in a rigid wood frame the headstock for the two lighter bells being dated 1773. The bells appear to have never been hung to be rung but can only be chimed. The Treble (C) weighs approximately 5 cwt. and is marked Anno Domino 1634. The Second (Bb) weighs approximately 6 cwt. and is marked Anno Domino 1634. The Tenor (A) weighs approximately 7.5 cwt. and is marked "Recast by John Warner and Sons. London 1872 /Royal Arms Patent."

The Treble and Second were cast by Roger Purdue 1 of Bristol, whose working dates were 1600 - 1641. These two bells were most likely to have been cast at a temporary foundry near the church in Llawhaden. Both are maiden bells (not been tuned) but have a very fair tone and tuning. The Tenor was recast at the Cripplegate Foundry in London whose working dates were 1850 - 1921. This bell was tuned after casting. The softwood frame appears to be from the first half of the 18th. Century and is not the work of a professional bellhanger.

Inside the church, by the West entrance door, we see a fine example of a Norman Font. The base and cable are Norman but some parts are more modern. Note the Norman cabling around the column of the base and around the top of the pillar and basin. The Nave is lofty and large and can seat about 300 people. The reason for this probably lies in the fact that the Norman Bishops were also Barons and part of their duty would be to issue the Royal Proclamations to the people of the whole area using St. Aidan's church for this purpose.

Proceeding down the Aisle you will find a very old mural tablet with a Latin epitaph. It is in memory of the Revd Evan Owen, Chancellor of St. David's Cathedral (Menevia) and Chaplain to King Charles II, who died in 1662, This is attached to a wall built in an arch which once led to the Belfry but is now closed. It forms a small transept at present.

The Chancel Arch is Norman and one of the items of main interest is the Arcade which leads to the little Chapel (Restored 1861 by Martha Jane Roch) or transept now used as a Vestry. The two arches are supported by a round pillar, the capital of which is decorated by a Norman cable moulding. The ends of the arches are decorated with grotesque heads and figures. There are several gargoyles in the church and the builders were probably local people and apparently, if a mason had a grudge against someone he would sculpt a figure In caricature. Several of the gargoyles are hideous, but there are also pigs, pelicans and doves to be seen. The dove representing the presence of the Holy Spirit. The Arcade is of a late Tudor work and may date from as late a time as Bishop Laud who was Lord Bishop of St. David's before being elevated to Canterbury.

Above the Arcade there is a tablet in memory of The Revd William Evans MA, who translated the works of The Revd Rhys Pritchard, Vicar of Llandovery, into English. Vicar Pritchard was also Chancellor of St. David's Cathedral and wrote "Cannwyll y Cymry"

Near the Arcade is a blocked up window looking south Mr. Ken Bowen of Church Cottage has a beautiful Water Colour of the church prior to the restoration of the Chapel and this window must have been blocked up at the time of this restoration. Also shown in the painting are Gable roofs to the two towers. (Painted by Arthur Fripp, 1813 - 1896.). A photographic copy has been kindly given by Mr. Bowen to keep in the Church Inventory.

In the present Vestry we notice a recumbent sepulchral stone effigy of a priest, vested for the celebration of Holy Eucharist, in his Alb, Stole, Maniple, Chasuble and with his head tonsured. It is traditionally assigned to a local saint who Played a prominent part in the shaping of the lives of men, the destiny and career of the early church of this place, St. Hugo or St. Hugh as he is locally known. From the Vestry we enter the Tower which also has a separate entrance from the church yard.

The oldest part of the present building is a stone built into the East wall. It is thought to be an old coffin lid and is in the form of a Latin cross. Latin crosses were common in the I0th. and 11th. Centuries but it is one of only a few remaining in the British Isles. The upper Latin cross. Latin crosses were common in the 10th. and 11th. Centuries but it is one of only a few remaining in the British Isles. The upper limbs of the cross were inserted through a circle, the cross symbolising Faith and the Circle a symbol of Eternity. The cross has been badly affected by the weather despite attempts to preserve it.

Llawhaden was on a Pilgrim Route from North Wales. The Monks of Bardsey Island used to make pilgrimages to St. David's and followed the coast road from North Wales visit Mwnt Church (outside Cardigan) and come off the Preseli's via St. Non's, Llanycefn and St. Mary's, Bletherston to St. Aidan's, Llawhaden. St. Non's, Llanycefn was a training church for the monks from Llawhaden. There is a Farm about a hundred yards from the church called "Holgan" which was probably a corruption of "Heol y Gan", the Road of Song. When the pilgrims came to Holgan they chanted Psalms on their way to the church. After a service they went on to the Pilgrim's Rest in the village and, after a nights rest, continued on to Haverfordwest through Wiston and then on to St. David's.

Recent work on the building has been the renewing of the Vestry roof and the South side of the Chancel roof which was a major undertaking. The lead valley between the vestry and chancel was also renewed. (1993).

During the summer of 1994 the river bank, which had been eroded almost to the church east wall, was reformed with large stone boulders to recover its former position. The stones were placed in a gentle curve from about 20 yards north of the church to divert the water flow to the centre of the river and past the church. We were grateful for the generous help from both the Prince of Wales Trust and the National River Authority who carried out the work.

The East Window was replaced in December 1995 with a Stained Glass window which was re-dedicated by the Archdeacon of St. David's, the Ven. C,J. Harvey. Canon William Watkins, Rural Dean and Incumbent of Uzmaston and Slebech was present. The window was removed from St. John The Baptist Church, Slebech which had become unsafe for use due to structural problems. The present congregation from Slebech were invited to the service and celeboraty Tea.

This was the result of a protracted effort by The Revd Arthur Clark, Vicar of St. Aidan's, against the imposed conditions of The National Park Authority. Settlement in favour of the Vicar was finally given following an Appeal to The Secretary of State for Wales. The restoration of the window to modern standards was carried out by C.G. Toft Ltd. Of Swansea.

The centre panel depicts Christ kneeling in the Garden of Gethsemane with the four Gospel writers shown in lozenges in the outer panels. The window is full of christian teaching and symbols showing the use of "graphic art" in a religious setting.

There are several historic private residences in the parish.

St. Kenox, now a farm, was the residence of the Chancellors of St. David's Cathedral in the 16th. and 17th. Centuries. It is also associated with Vicar Pritchard who wrote the first hymn in Welsh and as a dissenter preached to large crowds at the farm.

Talybont, which was the home of the Hawkwells.

Llawhaden House, which is linked to the Mears family.

Ridgeway House, which is of great historical interest on account of the deeds of members of the Foley family and the interesting visits of Lord Nelson. The bells of St. Aidan's were rung as a celebration for each of Nelson's victories.

Vaynor, the residence of Richard Philipps who later became Lord Milford.

There are many generous gifts in Llawhaden church as memorials and of note are those of the Gibbon family late of Rogershook and Great Vaynor. Of special note is the carved wood Lectern with its imposing proportions yet being, at the same time, very appropriate. A fitting memorial tablet is on the North wall of the Nave to William Arthur Lewis, Head Teacher at Llawhaden School for 40 years and Organist of the Church.

Vicars of Llawhaden with Bletherston, from 1397.

Graham Davies

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