One of the most satisfying experiences in photography is creating images which you have processed and printed yourself from start to finish. Developing black and white films is the easiest form of home processing and doesn't require any complicated or expensive equipment.
This document gives you the minimum information required to process your own black and white films. Read on...
First of all we consider the purpose of the basic stages involved in processing a black and white film. It is important that you understand what is happening at each stage before you read the step-by-step instructions which follow.
Development
When the shutter of the camera allows light to fall on the film, some of the silver halides are converted to silver deposits while those receiving no light remain unaltered. This pattern of varying concentrations of silver crystals is known as the latent image.
The function of the developer is to enhance the latent image and make it visible. Development is the most critical stage in the whole process and will determine the final appearance of your black and white negatives.
Stop Bath
After development is complete, the film should be rinsed with an acidic stop bath; this has two main effects: First the process of development is halted immediately, and secondly any remaining developer is neutralised thereby extending the life of the fixing solution.
Fix Bath
After development has ceased the film is still sensitive to light. The fix bath will ensure the film is no longer light sensitive and make the image permanent.
Wash
Fixer and other chemicals remaining after processing may eventually attack the film and make the image fade. The film must be given a thorough wash.
Dry
Finally, the film must be left to dry in a dust free environment.
Now let's take another look in further detail:
Preparation
The first thing that you should always do is check and double check that you have everything you need (including mixed chemicals) within easy reach. The last thing you want is to find that you've run out of fixer just as you pour the stop bath down the sink!!
If possible, you should leave the film leader out of the cassette or extract it using one of those infuriating leader retrievers.
Loading the Tank
Make sure that you are totally familiar with the developing tank and how all the various parts fit together. Loading the film onto the spiral is easy once you've practised enough times!! Find a length of old film and make sure that you can easily load it on to the spiral; remember, no cheating, this has to be done in complete darkness!
Once the film is wound on to the spiral, cut the spool off the end with scissors. (You did remember to put the scissors where you could find them easily in the dark, didn't you?) Assemble the tank (don't forget to include the central column) and make sure that the spiral is pushed all the way to the bottom. When you are sure that the lid is on securely, then you may switch the light back on.
Development
There are so many different types of developer on the market, the only advice when mixing one up is to follow the instructions on the packet! These instructions will tell you what concentration to use, the recommended temperature and times of development for your particular film. The amount of developer required per film is printed on the bottom of the tank (270ml per 35mm film using the Paterson tanks).
Pour the developer fairly quickly into the top of the tank and start your stopwatch or timer. The film needs to be agitated at regular intervals so that fresh developer always circulates around the film. The Ilford instructions specify ten seconds of continuous agitation at the start of each minute. A black plastic "twiddle-stick" is provided to rotate the film spiral through the central column, or you may invert the tank instead (lids are available, make sure you keep hold of them while inverting!!). Gently tap the tank to dislodge any air bubbles.
At the end of the specified time, pour the developer down the sink and wash it down with copius amounts of water to dilute it.
Stop Bath
Fill the tank with stop bath; the temperature of the bath is not as critical as it was for the developer, but it should be within five degrees (C) of the developer solution to avoid damage to the film.
Swish the tank around for a few seconds, then return the stop bath to the bottle.
Fix Bath
Pour the required amount of fixer into the tank; again the temperature is not critical, but needs to be within five degrees.
The time required to fix the film may depend on how fresh the solution is. Usually, about five minutes is enough, but it's unlikely that you will over fix your film (unless it stays there for over an hour!). A good guide to how long is required is to place a piece of unprocessed film into the fixer and time how long it takes to go clear. You should leave your film fixing for at least twice as long as this clearing time.
Your film should now be fully fixed and no longer sensitive to light. Don't be tempted to take a peek at your film at this stage - you'll never be able to put it back on the spiral ready for washing. (OK, I admit I always take a look at the film before washing, but be careful not to get fixer on your hands...)
If your film appears cloudy and milky, then it is probably not sufficiently fixed. Don't worry, it can always be re-fixed with a fresh solution.
Washing
Washing is very important, preferably with running water. Either leave the tank under a running tap for at least ten minutes, or fill the tank, invert five times and empty, fill again, invert ten times and empty, and fill once more and invert twenty times.
Drying
Great care must be taken with the film during this final stage - the emulsion is very soft and scratches easily. Dust is a big problem and will happily speckle itself all over the best shot on the film! Remember that you and your clothing is a source of dust and fibres, so keep the film at arms length as much as possible, and avoid wearing fluffy jumpers.
A few drops of a wetting agent (such as Ilfosol or detergent) added to the wash water remaining in the tank, will reduce the surface tension of the water and allow the film to dry more evenly. Excess water may be removed from the film surface with the film squeegee (not the print squeegee which is bigger), but don't squeeze too hard since it may cause scratches.
Hang the film up in a dust free environment (tiled bathrooms are quite good for this), and leave to dry for about two hours at room temperature. A hair dryer can be useful to speed up the drying process, but is prone to stirring up dust and sticking it to your film.
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Disclaimer : This guide was typed on a Toshiba T3100 using the DisplayWrite4 editor. The instructions given are intended as a basic guide only. It is recommended that you consult instructions specific to your film and developer combination. No responsibility can be taken for any loss or damage however caused. (Remember to turn the lights out now d'ya hear!?)