Furbabies
Cat Care Site

Birth

The Basics

Queens should be kept indoors during at least the last two weeks of pregnancy. When the queen approaches the 59th day of pregnancy, confine her to the cage or room where you want her to deliver the kittens. For more information on pregnancy, see the Pregnancy page.

In the week before birth, the queen will spend more time self grooming and may become increasingly restless or irritable. The queens temperature will drop from a normal of 101.5F to 99.5F or below for a 12 to 24 hour period before delivery. This temperature drop may be easily missed.

In longhaired cats, the fur should be clipped away from the rear end so the hair doesn't stick to the umbilical cord during delivery. The fur should also be clipped from around the nipples to allow the kittens to suckle more easily. These procedures are not required in shorthaired cats.

Signs Of Labour

The cat may be squatting and straining.

In shorthair cats, rippling labour (labor) contractions may be seen across the cats body.

The Birth Process

Hormones from the pituitary gland set birth into motion. 70% of kittens are born in a diving position (with their front feet and nose first). Up to one third of kittens may be born tail end first. This is perfectly normal. (This is not a breech birth - breech is the birth position where the kittens bottom passes through the vagina with the hind feet pointing towards the head).

First Stage Labour may last up to 12 hours. It begins when the cervix of the uterus dilates (opens up) and a wedge of placental membranes enters it. Involuntary contractions of the uterine muscles push the kitten towards the outside world. When these contractions start the queen heads for the kittening box. She may start breathing rapidly, panting and purring. A clear vaginal discharge may be seen.

Second Stage Labour involves the delivery of the kitten and lasts between 10 to 30 minutes, and is no longer than 90 minutes. It begins when the emerging foetus (fetus) and membranes stimulate the mother to aid the involuntary contractions with her own voluntary abdominal muscle contractions or straining ("bearing down"). At first, bearing down occurs every 15 to 30 minutes. Soon the membrane surrounding the kitten (looks like a cloudy grey bubble) is seen at the vulval opening. The interval between bouts of bearing down decreases until straining occurs once every 15 to 30 seconds. The amount of membrane protruding increases in size and part of the kitten may be seen within it. With a few final contractions the queen pushes the kitten out. Most kittens are born 15 to 30 minutes apart.

Third Stage Labour is the expulsion of the foetal (fetal) membranes and placenta (afterbirth) and follows the birth. Each kitten has its own membranes and placenta, except for identical twins who may share one placenta. As soon as a kitten is born the queen starts licking it and she bites off the umbilical cord 2 to 4 cm (1 to 2 inches) from its navel. The queen may eat the placenta and umbilical cord. This is instinctive in many mammals. But don't be worried if she doesn't eat it.

When all of the kittens have been born, they should be ready to suckle. Make sure they each find a nipple to receive their ration of colostrum (first milk) which contains important antibodies and nutrients.

Dealing With A Weak Kitten

If a kitten is very cold and weak at birth, it must be gradually warmed up. Rapid warming (e.g. using a heat pad) will cause dilation of the skin blood vessels and lead to increased heat loss. The best way to warm a kitten is to place the kitten next to your skin beneath a sweater or jacket.

Delays During Delivery

The time between successive kittens varies between 5 minutes to 2 hours. Sometimes the queen will deliver half a litter then rest for 12 to 24 hours before delivering the others.

When To Help

If an inexperienced queen doesn't know what to do, you may need to help.

If a kitten is still covered in membranes, strip them off with your fingers. Dry the kitten with a warm towel and make sure the mouth and nostrils are unobstructed. When the kitten is breathing, making faint squeaking noises and wriggling, deal with the umbilical cord. Disinfect a length of cotton and a pair of scissors in antiseptic solution. Tie the cotton around the umbilical cord about 2.5cm (1 inch) from the kittens stomach. Put a double knot in the cotton, then cut the umbilical cord 0.5cm (1/4 inch) beyond the knot on the placental side of the knot (furthest from the kittens stomach). Put the kitten in the kittening box.

When To Contact The Veterinarian

Contact The Veterinarian During The Birth

If the queen has been bearing down for 2 hours without producing a kitten
When the queen is not bearing down at all and it has been at least 6 hours after blood or other coloured discharge appeared from the vulva
When bearing down has stopped for more than 2 hours, but the queen is obviously still carrying a kitten or kittens

Contact The Veterinarian After The Birth

If the queen bleeds significantly from her vagina (more than 2 teaspoonfuls)
If you see a coloured, white or foul smelling vaginal discharge
If the queen seems lethargic or dull
If the queen is not eating normally after the first 12 hours
If the queen is still straining after the birth of the last kitten and expulsion of its placenta
If the queen seems abnormally restless or feverish
If the queens temperature is above 104F or below 97F
If the queen shows no interest in the kittens

Caring For The Queen And Kittens

Provide the queen with clean bedding. House the queen and kittens in a quiet, dimly lit area, away from drafts and the busyness of the house. The room temperature should be about 86F. If the room is too cold, hang an infra red lamp above the kittens den or place a heating pad under the toweling. The temperature can gradually be lowered to 75F over the next 3 weeks. If the room is too hot, the queen will separate from the kittens to let them cool down.

Place the queens food, water and litter within easy reach because she won't want to leave the kittens alone.

References

Carlson DG & Giffin JM, Cat Owners Home Veterinary Handbook, New York: Howell Book House, 1995

Page S, The Complete Cat Owners Manual, Australia: Readers Digest, 1997

Taylor D, The Ultimate Cat Book, Great Britain: Dorling Kindersley, 1989

[Back to top]

Furbabies Cat Care

Everything Feline