Wet And Grumpy
Narjing Dingma (8690 feet), 7th October
Another night of fierce rain, everything is wet and we got more rain and heavy clouds through the day. Everyone is disappointed.
As happened yesterday, all the big viewpoints were hidden from us. And as for the so-called 'Raspberry Ridge' supposed to be full of raspberries 'ripe to perfection in October', I think I saw one raspberry on one bush!
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Andy is trying to keep spirits up, but a wet and bedraggled Chris is having none of it |
Today our route continued to ascend the right hand side of the Hinku valley until we were near the top of the ridge (we did get glimpses of the Hongu valley to its right, which is even more remote and unspoiled). At long last we gained height and did not lose it again. In fact we gained too much height! The fast group arrived at what they believed was the campsite (there is no obvious sign) and the Sherpas started to put the tents up. Along came Andy, furious; the real campsite according to him, was at least an hour's march further on and if we stopped here it would make tomorrow's journey much longer. So everyone had to set out again. A few were somewhat disgruntled. Andy came back to give Colin and I the news also that there was an 'extra' hour's walking to do. Suddenly my body felt much more tired for having heard the news. As we had stopped for lunch very early today (about 11 am), the afternoon session of walking seemed endless. It was all uphill, over slippery big rocks. Then the path became pools of water, interspersed with scrambly bits that got your hands/gloves wet, as well as your feet and trousers. Meanwhile the rain had seeped in through my waterproofs, so I felt all-round discomfort. |
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The New Campsite When we arrived at the new campsite I was wet, chilled, miserable and exhausted. I wanted to get into my sleeping bag with the minimum delay. I lost my temper with the others when none of them would (could) tell me which tent was the one for Colin and I. That was the moment my cold/chill started. |
Wet and grumpy |
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Andy checked the height of the new campsite with his altimeter. It said 3715 metres instead of the expected 3600-3650. The earlier campsite had been the correct one after all. Perhaps tomorrow would be an easier day. |
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Cook Nima and a freshly picked mushroom |
The highlight of the trek so far The highlight of the trek happened today. Colin and I had watched one of the porters shinning up a tree to pick some golden fungi growing high up on the tree trunk. It was evidently a speciality of this area and the porters had gathered quite a pile of them. When we squelched past a Sherpa dwelling, Andy and Mingma were inside having tea. Did we want to taste some wild mushrooms, they asked. Yessir, we replied, our dulled minds thinking more about having some redress from the rain. We sat inside, gently steaming. After ten minutes or so, out came these huge bowls of fried wild golden mushrooms, also steaming, but with a much more agreeable odour. I thought those mushrooms were quite the most delicious things I had ever tasted. |
And, just occasionally, the sun did break through the clouds
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