Saint Clement's Church, Rodel, Harris
Eaglais aig Roaghadal, Na Hearidh
Images from my visit to Saint Clement's Church, Rodel, Harris, June 2001. Click on an image to make it bigger.
In the village of Rodel, on the southern coast of Harris stands the 15th
century church of St Clement's (above). It is one of the finest examples of
medieval architecture in the Western Isles. It is situated on the side of a hill,
not far from the old pier and recently redeveloped hotel. The sight of the tower
emerging from the surrounding hills when driving through the village of Rodel is
breathtaking. The atmosphere in the church and around the grounds (which for
many
years was the burial place of the MacLeods of Harris) is awe inspiring. It is an
amazingly peaceful place.
St Clement's was originally built (using local
Lewisian Gneiss rock) for the Cheifs of the MacLeods of Harris, who lived in
Dunvegan on the Isle of Skye. The church was build at the closest point in
Harris to Dunvegan, and from the tower, the waters of the Minch between Harris,
Uist and the Mainland could be watched to detect any potential invaders, namely
the MacDonalds. The church served as the burial place of the standard bearers of
the "fairy flag" - a magical flag that was waved by the MacLeods before battle
for good luck. When a bearer died, his remains where placed on a metal rack
under the floor of the church. When his successor eventually died, the bones of
the previous bearer were shaken through the rack to make way for the next body -
an unusual custom. In the extended choir at the east side of the church, the
elaborately decorated tomb of Alisdair Crotach, the 8th chief, can be found.
This was prepared in 1528. The tomb shows scenes of the Castle in Dunvegan,
religious figures, and a carved effigy of the chief himself.
By the 18th
century, the church had become ruinous, and for many years was used as a cow
stable. It was restored in 1784, but labourers working on the renovation
accidentally caused a fire, and the building was restored again in 1787. The
church fell out of use once again, but was restored once again by the Countess
of Dunmore in 1873. The church is now in the care of Historic Scotland.
Words and Images: Hebridean Resource Centre